Stories · Philippines

7 days in Palawan (El Nido)

The story I wish I had read before going.

7 days in Palawan (El Nido), in Palawan (El Nido)

On an island you count in tides rather than hours. 7 days in Palawan (El Nido) is time enough to go around it and leave a bit of yourself.

Day 1 · Fresh air

In the morning, I make my way to Shimizu Island. Go late in the afternoon: the heat drops, the light softens and the photos take themselves. Everyone goes; everyone is right. Travellers give it 4.6 out of 5 (846 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. To get organised: here is the route by public transport; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise also check Tiqets.

Then, it’s Big Lagoon. It’s the kind of place that makes you go quiet for a moment, even when you thought you knew it all. 4.9 out of 5 across 246 reviews: few places are this unanimous. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or go through Tiqets.

Big Lagoon, in Palawan (El Nido)

For lunch, Palawan is full of options: trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.

Later, meet me at Secret Lagoon. Bring water, shoes that hold, and no watch. Unmissable, and for good reason. Getting there: the public-transport route. To get a feel for it: what visitors say.

In the evening, let go: a terrace, a walk, and Palawan (El Nido) does the rest.

Day 2 · Fresh air

Early in the morning, head to Seven Commandos Beach. This is the breath of the trip. Even one hour changes the day. Everyone goes; everyone is right. Travellers give it 4.6 out of 5 (737 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Practical: the public-transport route · what visitors say.

Seven Commandos Beach, in Palawan (El Nido)

Late morning, it’s Las Cabañas Beach. This is the breath of the trip. Even one hour changes the day. Unmissable, and for good reason. 4.5 out of 5 across 1,600 reviews: few places are this unanimous. Practical: the public-transport route · what visitors say.

Lunch without a plan: the first noisy room you pass is often the right one.

After lunch, it’s Hidden Beach. This is the breath of the trip. Even one hour changes the day. Everyone goes; everyone is right. 4.7 out of 5 across 904 reviews: few places are this unanimous. Practical: how to get there · travellers’ reviews.

Keep the evening free. Palawan (El Nido) is a city that tells itself better at night.

Day 3 · The icons

To start, I make my way to Snake Island sandbar. This is the breath of the trip. Even one hour changes the day. Unmissable, and for good reason. 4.6 out of 5 across 305 reviews: few places are this unanimous. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or compare on Tiqets.

Snake Island sandbar, in Palawan (El Nido)

Around noon, meet me at Cudugnon Cave. Take the time to walk all the way around it; the best views are rarely at the entrance. Everyone goes; everyone is right. Travellers give it 4.5 out of 5 (365 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise compare on Tiqets.

At lunchtime, stay around Palawan: a noisy room, a dish of the day, and you’ve understood everything.

In the afternoon, head to Cathedral Cave. You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or compare on Tiqets.

Keep the evening free. Palawan (El Nido) is a city that tells itself better at night.

Day 4 · Neighbourhoods and flavours

In the morning, it’s Corong Corong Pier. This is where the city looks most like itself. Walk slowly, look at the shopfronts, listen. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your tickets or compare on Tiqets.

Corong Corong Pier, in Palawan (El Nido)

Then, I make my way to El nido. It’s the kind of place that makes you go quiet for a moment, even when you thought you knew it all. Everyone goes; everyone is right. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise go through Tiqets.

For lunch, Palawan is full of options: trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.

Later, I make my way to Corong Corong Beach spot 2. This is the breath of the trip. Even one hour changes the day. Everyone goes; everyone is right. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or go through Tiqets.

Keep the evening free. Palawan (El Nido) is a city that tells itself better at night.

Day 5 · Fresh air

Early in the morning, head to Taraw Cliff. This is the breath of the trip. Even one hour changes the day. Unmissable, and for good reason. 4.5 out of 5 across 367 reviews: few places are this unanimous. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise also check Tiqets.

Taraw Cliff, in Palawan (El Nido)

Late morning, it’s El Nido Via Ferrata Canopy Walk. It’s the kind of place that makes you go quiet for a moment, even when you thought you knew it all. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise go through Tiqets.

At lunchtime, stay around Palawan: a noisy room, a dish of the day, and you’ve understood everything.

In the afternoon, it’s El Nido Beach. This is the breath of the trip. Even one hour changes the day. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or also check Tiqets.

In the evening, let go: a terrace, a walk, and Palawan (El Nido) does the rest.

Day 6 · Fresh air

In the morning, meet me at Talisay Beach. Bring water, shoes that hold, and no watch. Everyone goes; everyone is right. Getting there: the public-transport route. To get a feel for it: travellers’ reviews.

Talisay Beach, in Palawan (El Nido)

Around noon, meet me at TownSquare. You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. Unmissable, and for good reason. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or go through Tiqets.

For lunch, trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.

Later, head to Payong-Payong Beach. Go late in the afternoon: the heat drops, the light softens and the photos take themselves. Unmissable, and for good reason. Travellers give it 4.6 out of 5 (260 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Getting there: how to get there. To get a feel for it: what visitors say.

In the evening, let go: a terrace, a walk, and Palawan (El Nido) does the rest.

Day 7 · Neighbourhoods and flavours

To start, it’s Small Lagoon to Big Lagoon. Here the plan is to have none: one street, then the next, and a table when your stomach asks. Unmissable, and for good reason. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line book your visit, otherwise go through Tiqets.

Small Lagoon to Big Lagoon, in Palawan (El Nido)

Late morning, I make my way to Small Lagoon. My advice: a pause on a terrace at the hour when locals leave work. You understand everything. 4.9 out of 5 across 319 reviews: few places are this unanimous. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or also check Tiqets.

At lunchtime, stay around Palawan: a noisy room, a dish of the day, and you’ve understood everything.

Later, head to Secret Beach. Bring water, shoes that hold, and no watch. Travellers give it 4.6 out of 5 (246 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Practical: how to get there · what visitors say.

In the evening, let go: a terrace, a walk, and Palawan (El Nido) does the rest.

If you’re still hungry

I still have a few up my sleeve: Lio Beach, Cadlao Lagoon, Pinagbuyutan Island, Lio Jetty, Ille Cave and El Nido Palawan Tours. Your call.

My advice

Walk. Then take public transport: that is where you see the city live.

Book the busiest places the day before: queues have ruined more than one morning.

Keep a little local cash: the best addresses are often the least equipped.

There. The rest is yours: the detours, the encounters, the café that becomes your own.

A Triovol story · written by someone who would go back tomorrow

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