Stories · Madagascar
5 days in Antananarivo
Not a list: a thread to follow, at your own pace.
My first time in Antananarivo, I tried to see everything and mostly saw queues. Now I do it differently: a few places a day, the right ones, in the right order. Here is my 5-day thread.
Day 1 · The icons
Early in the morning, I make my way to Fondation H – Antananarivo. You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. Everyone goes; everyone is right. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line book your visit, otherwise also check Tiqets.
Around noon, head to Is´Art Galerie. The audio guides are worth it; otherwise, follow a group and steal three anecdotes on the way. Unmissable, and for good reason. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or compare on Tiqets.
For lunch, trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.
Later, meet me at EKAR Faravohitra. Take the time to walk all the way around it; the best views are rarely at the entrance. Unmissable, and for good reason. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your tickets or go through Tiqets.
Keep the evening free. Antananarivo is a city that tells itself better at night.
Day 2 · The icons
To start, it’s Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception Andohalo. It’s the kind of place that makes you go quiet for a moment, even when you thought you knew it all. Everyone goes; everyone is right. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your tickets or go through Tiqets.
Then, I make my way to Madagascar Photography Museum. I always pick two or three rooms rather than seeing everything. You walk out light. Unmissable, and for good reason. Travellers give it 4.6 out of 5 (237 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your tickets or compare on Tiqets.
For lunch, Antananarivo 101 is full of options: trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.
In the afternoon, I make my way to Viewpoint (Staircase leading up to the cathedral). You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise also check Tiqets.
In the evening, let go: a terrace, a walk, and Antananarivo does the rest.
Day 3 · The icons
In the morning, meet me at Lemurs'Park. This is the breath of the trip. Even one hour changes the day. Unmissable, and for good reason. 4.5 out of 5 across 551 reviews: few places are this unanimous. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your tickets or also check Tiqets.
Late morning, it’s Bernard & Kiwi.inc. Take the time to walk all the way around it; the best views are rarely at the entrance. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise go through Tiqets.
At lunchtime, stay around Imerintsiatosika: a noisy room, a dish of the day, and you’ve understood everything.
After lunch, I make my way to Bird watching tour. You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise compare on Tiqets.
In the evening, let go: a terrace, a walk, and Antananarivo does the rest.
Day 4 · Fresh air
In the morning, meet me at Queen's Palace. Go late in the afternoon: the heat drops, the light softens and the photos take themselves. Everyone goes; everyone is right. To get organised: here is the route by public transport; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise also check Tiqets.
Then, I make my way to Antananarivo vue panoramique. It’s the kind of place that makes you go quiet for a moment, even when you thought you knew it all. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or compare on Tiqets.
For lunch, Antananarivo 101 is full of options: trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.
After lunch, head to Andafiavaratra Palace. Bring water, shoes that hold, and no watch. Unmissable, and for good reason. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or also check Tiqets.
Keep the evening free. Antananarivo is a city that tells itself better at night.
Day 5 · The icons
To start, I make my way to Lake Anosy. Go late in the afternoon: the heat drops, the light softens and the photos take themselves. Unmissable, and for good reason. Practical: how to get there · travellers’ reviews.
Late morning, it’s Gare Soarano. You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. Everyone goes; everyone is right. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise also check Tiqets.
Lunch without a plan: the first noisy room you pass is often the right one.
In the afternoon, it’s Isoraka. You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. Everyone goes; everyone is right. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise compare on Tiqets.
In the evening, let go: a terrace, a walk, and Antananarivo does the rest.
If you’re still hungry
Other places I wish I could have fitted in: Ambohimanga, Tsarasaotra Park, Analakely Market, Tsimbazaza Zoo & Botanical Gardens, Hindu Samaj Mandir Antananarivo and T-T MADADISCOVER. Slip them in wherever a day feels light.
My advice
Walk. Then take public transport: that is where you see the city live.
Book the busiest places the day before: queues have ruined more than one morning.
Keep a little local cash: the best addresses are often the least equipped.
And if you go, tell me what you loved. Antananarivo changes, and so do I.
A Triovol story · written by someone who would go back tomorrow
Opening hours, prices and closures change: a quick look at the venue’s website before you go avoids bad surprises.