Stories · Tunisia
3 days in Tunis
The story I wish I had read before going.
Tunis is earned slowly. This story follows a simple logic: the icons early in the morning, the neighbourhoods when the city wakes up, and evenings left to chance. 3 days, one thread, no stress.
Day 1 · Museums and culture
In the morning, meet me at Punic Quarter of Byrsa. Give it a good two hours, and leave before you are full: that is the secret to wanting to come back. 4.6 out of 5 across 1,821 reviews: few places are this unanimous. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line book your visit, otherwise also check Tiqets.
Then, head to Ancient Aqueducts of Carthage. The audio guides are worth it; otherwise, follow a group and steal three anecdotes on the way. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your tickets or go through Tiqets.
For lunch, Carthage is full of options: trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.
In the afternoon, it’s Ancient Amphitheatre of Carthage. I always pick two or three rooms rather than seeing everything. You walk out light. To get organised: here is the route by public transport; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise compare on Tiqets.
Keep the evening free. Tunis is a city that tells itself better at night.
Day 2 · Museums and culture
To start, I make my way to Bardo National Museum. The audio guides are worth it; otherwise, follow a group and steal three anecdotes on the way. Travellers give it 4.6 out of 5 (4,738 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or go through Tiqets.
Around noon, I make my way to Katkout. The kids will still be talking about it weeks later. So will the adults, though they admit it less. To get organised: here is the route by public transport; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise compare on Tiqets.
At lunchtime, stay around Tunis: a noisy room, a dish of the day, and you’ve understood everything.
Later, head to Bardo El Sour. It’s the kind of place that makes you go quiet for a moment, even when you thought you knew it all. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise compare on Tiqets.
In the evening, let go: a terrace, a walk, and Tunis does the rest.
Day 3 · The icons
Early in the morning, head to Zitouna Mosque. You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. 4.6 out of 5 across 3,454 reviews: few places are this unanimous. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your tickets or compare on Tiqets.
Late morning, head to Madrasa Slimania. Take the time to walk all the way around it; the best views are rarely at the entrance. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line book your visit, otherwise compare on Tiqets.
For lunch, Tunis is full of options: trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.
After lunch, meet me at Hammouda Pacha Mausoleum. Take the time to walk all the way around it; the best views are rarely at the entrance. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or also check Tiqets.
In the evening, let go: a terrace, a walk, and Tunis does the rest.
If you’re still hungry
Other places I wish I could have fitted in: Bab el Bhar, Tunis Clock Tower, Punic Ports of Carthage, Kasbah Square, Kasbah Mosque and Handsome cat. Slip them in wherever a day feels light.
My advice
Walk. Then take public transport: that is where you see the city live.
Book the busiest places the day before: queues have ruined more than one morning.
Keep a little local cash: the best addresses are often the least equipped.
And if you go, tell me what you loved. Tunis changes, and so do I.
A Triovol story · written by someone who would go back tomorrow
Opening hours, prices and closures change: a quick look at the venue’s website before you go avoids bad surprises.