Stories · Ethiopia

5 days in Addis Ababa

The story I wish I had read before going.

5 days in Addis Ababa, in Addis Ababa

My first time in Addis Ababa, I tried to see everything and mostly saw queues. Now I do it differently: a few places a day, the right ones, in the right order. Here is my 5-day thread.

Day 1 · With the family

Early in the morning, I make my way to Unity Park. The kids will still be talking about it weeks later. So will the adults, though they admit it less. Unmissable, and for good reason. Travellers give it 4.5 out of 5 (1,912 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or compare on Tiqets.

Late morning, it’s Egg house & Emperor Menelik II's Quarter | እንቁላል ቤት | የንጉሥ ምኒልክ ግቢ. Give it a good two hours, and leave before you are full: that is the secret to wanting to come back. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise also check Tiqets.

Egg house & Emperor Menelik II's Quarter | እንቁላል ቤት | የንጉሥ ምኒልክ ግቢ, in Addis Ababa

At lunchtime, stay around Addis Ababa: a noisy room, a dish of the day, and you’ve understood everything.

In the afternoon, meet me at Addis Ababa park. Bring water, shoes that hold, and no watch. Practical: here is the route by public transport · travellers’ reviews.

Keep the evening free. Addis Ababa is a city that tells itself better at night.

Day 2 · The icons

To start, head to St. George Church. It’s the kind of place that makes you go quiet for a moment, even when you thought you knew it all. Everyone goes; everyone is right. 4.5 out of 5 across 335 reviews: few places are this unanimous. Getting there: the public-transport route. To get a feel for it: what visitors say.

St. George Church, in Addis Ababa

Around noon, meet me at Medhanealem Cathedral. Take the time to walk all the way around it; the best views are rarely at the entrance. Unmissable, and for good reason. Travellers give it 4.5 out of 5 (474 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Practical: how to get there · what visitors say.

For lunch, trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.

Later, I make my way to Zoma Museum. I always pick two or three rooms rather than seeing everything. You walk out light. Unmissable, and for good reason. To get organised: here is the route by public transport; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise go through Tiqets.

In the evening, let go: a terrace, a walk, and Addis Ababa does the rest.

Day 3 · Fresh air

In the morning, I make my way to Entoto St. Maryam Church. Go late in the afternoon: the heat drops, the light softens and the photos take themselves. Everyone goes; everyone is right. Travellers give it 4.6 out of 5 (420 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise also check Tiqets.

Entoto St. Maryam Church, in Addis Ababa

Then, I make my way to Entoto Park. This is the breath of the trip. Even one hour changes the day. Getting there: the public-transport route. To get a feel for it: what visitors say.

For lunch, Tulu Lench'a is full of options: trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.

After lunch, head to جبل انطوطو. You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or compare on Tiqets.

Keep the evening free. Addis Ababa is a city that tells itself better at night.

Day 4 · Museums and culture

In the morning, it’s Addis Ababa Museum | መስቀል አደባባይ. The audio guides are worth it; otherwise, follow a group and steal three anecdotes on the way. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise compare on Tiqets.

Addis Ababa Museum | መስቀል አደባባይ, in Addis Ababa

Late morning, it’s Red Terror Martyrs' Memorial Museum የቀይ ሽብር መታሰቢያ ሙዚየም. Give it a good two hours, and leave before you are full: that is the secret to wanting to come back. Unmissable, and for good reason. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line book your visit, otherwise also check Tiqets.

At lunchtime, stay around Addis Ababa: a noisy room, a dish of the day, and you’ve understood everything.

After lunch, it’s Meskel Square. It’s the kind of place that makes you go quiet for a moment, even when you thought you knew it all. Everyone goes; everyone is right. Getting there: how to get there. To get a feel for it: what visitors say.

Keep the evening free. Addis Ababa is a city that tells itself better at night.

Day 5 · The icons

To start, it’s Holy Trinity Cathedral. Take the time to walk all the way around it; the best views are rarely at the entrance. Unmissable, and for good reason. To get organised: here is the route by public transport; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise also check Tiqets.

Holy Trinity Cathedral, in Addis Ababa

Late morning, head to National Museum of Ethiopia. The audio guides are worth it; otherwise, follow a group and steal three anecdotes on the way. Everyone goes; everyone is right. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line book your visit, otherwise go through Tiqets.

At lunchtime, stay around Addis Ababa: a noisy room, a dish of the day, and you’ve understood everything.

In the afternoon, it’s 4 kilo square. You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise go through Tiqets.

In the evening, let go: a terrace, a walk, and Addis Ababa does the rest.

If you’re still hungry

I still have a few up my sleeve: Gulele Botanical Garden, Grand Anwar Mosque, Ethnological Museum, Shola Market, Merkato and Ethio African tour and travel. Your call.

My advice

Walk. Then take public transport: that is where you see the city live.

Book the busiest places the day before: queues have ruined more than one morning.

Keep a little local cash: the best addresses are often the least equipped.

And if you go, tell me what you loved. Addis Ababa changes, and so do I.

A Triovol story · written by someone who would go back tomorrow

Opening hours, prices and closures change: a quick look at the venue’s website before you go avoids bad surprises.