5 days in Marrakech

Early in the morning, head to Madrasa Ben Youssef. The courtyard of the old Koranic school, the marble, the carved cedar: the most beautiful monument in the city, in my opinion. Travellers give it 4.7 out of 5 (13,628 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line book your visit, otherwise go through Tiqets.

Late morning, I make my way to Marrakech Museum. The audio guides are worth it; otherwise, follow a group and steal three anecdotes on the way. Everyone goes; everyone is right. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your tickets or also check Tiqets.

Later, meet me at Marrakech Sightseeing Tours. You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. To get organised: here is the route by public transport; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise compare on Tiqets.

To start, it’s Koutoubia. The minaret that serves as a lighthouse for the whole city; the gardens at its foot, at sunset, are a rest. 4.6 out of 5 across 18,940 reviews: few places are this unanimous. Practical: here is the route by public transport · what visitors say.

Then, it’s Marrakech Planet Tours. It’s the kind of place that makes you go quiet for a moment, even when you thought you knew it all. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise compare on Tiqets.

In the afternoon, I make my way to Park Arsat Moulay Abdesalam. Bring water, shoes that hold, and no watch. Unmissable, and for good reason. To get organised: here is the route by public transport; skip-the-line book your visit, otherwise go through Tiqets.

In the morning, it’s Ourika Valley or the Atlas. An hour by road and the mountains: Berber villages, the Setti Fatma waterfalls, tea with a local family. Fresh air after the medina. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise also check Tiqets.

Around noon, I make my way to Essaouira. Three hours by road to the ocean: ramparts, blue harbour, grilled sardines, and a wind that never stops. A day, or a night if you can. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your tickets or go through Tiqets.

To start, it’s Dar El Bacha Museum. Give it a good two hours, and leave before you are full: that is the secret to wanting to come back. Everyone goes; everyone is right. Travellers give it 4.6 out of 5 (3,165 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. To get organised: here is the route by public transport; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise also check Tiqets.

Around noon, I make my way to Souk Semmarine. Take the time to walk all the way around it; the best views are rarely at the entrance. Everyone goes; everyone is right. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or also check Tiqets.

After lunch, meet me at Jemaa el-Fnaa. I always pick two or three rooms rather than seeing everything. You walk out light. Unmissable, and for good reason. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or go through Tiqets.

In the morning, I make my way to Jardin Majorelle. The blue walls, the cacti, the bamboo: a bubble of coolness outside the medina. Book the first slot; the garden is small. To get organised: here is the route by public transport; skip-the-line book your visit, otherwise also check Tiqets.

Around noon, meet me at Musée Berbère Jardin Majorelle. This is the breath of the trip. Even one hour changes the day. To get organised: here is the route by public transport; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise go through Tiqets.

In the afternoon, head to Yves Saint Laurent Museum. The audio guides are worth it; otherwise, follow a group and steal three anecdotes on the way. Unmissable, and for good reason. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise also check Tiqets.