Stories · United Arab Emirates

5 days in Dubai

Not a list: a thread to follow, at your own pace.

5 days in Dubai, in Dubai

I first looked at Dubai from above, literally, from the 124th floor; I loved it down below, in the Deira souks, on a one-dirham abra, among spices and wooden boats. The city of records also has an old heart, and the desert begins forty minutes away.

Day 1 · The icons

To start, head to Mall of the Emirates. My advice: a pause on a terrace at the hour when locals leave work. You understand everything. Everyone goes; everyone is right. 4.7 out of 5 across 146,000 reviews: few places are this unanimous. To get organised: here is the route by public transport; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise compare on Tiqets.

Then, meet me at Jumeirah Burj Al Arab. Take the time to walk all the way around it; the best views are rarely at the entrance. Unmissable, and for good reason. Travellers give it 4.7 out of 5 (31,000 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your tickets or go through Tiqets.

Jumeirah Burj Al Arab, in Dubai

Lunch without a plan: the first noisy room you pass is often the right one.

Later, it’s Global Village. You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. Unmissable, and for good reason. 4.6 out of 5 across 144,000 reviews: few places are this unanimous. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or also check Tiqets.

In the evening, let go: a terrace, a walk, and Dubai does the rest.

Day 2 · Fresh air

In the morning, I make my way to The Dubai Fountain. The aquarium, the shops, then the fountain at nightfall, every thirty minutes. The show is free; the rest is tempting. 4.8 out of 5 across 138,874 reviews: few places are this unanimous. Getting there: the public-transport route. To get a feel for it: travellers’ reviews.

The Dubai Fountain, in Dubai

Around noon, head to Dubai Fountain Lake Ride. Go late in the afternoon: the heat drops, the light softens and the photos take themselves. Travellers give it 4.5 out of 5 (238 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line book your visit, otherwise also check Tiqets.

For lunch, Burj Khalifa - Downtown Dubai - Dubai is full of options: trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.

In the afternoon, meet me at Burj Park. This is the breath of the trip. Even one hour changes the day. 4.8 out of 5 across 62,348 reviews: few places are this unanimous. To get organised: here is the route by public transport; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise also check Tiqets.

In the evening, Desert safari: Dunes at sunset, camels, dinner under the stars: touristy and yet unforgettable. Choose a late-afternoon departure. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or also check Tiqets.

Day 3 · Day trip

Early in the morning, I make my way to Abu Dhabi and the Grand Mosque. An hour and a half by road: the Sheikh Zayed Mosque, white and immense, then the Louvre Abu Dhabi under its dome of light. The excursion that justifies a day. Practical: how to get there · what visitors say.

Day 4 · The icons

In the morning, meet me at Dubai Frame. A 150-metre golden frame between old and new Dubai: the metaphor is heavy, the view is superb. 4.6 out of 5 across 73,871 reviews: few places are this unanimous. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or compare on Tiqets.

Dubai Frame, in Dubai

Late morning, I make my way to Dubai Garden Glow - Dinosaur Park & Fantasy Park. The kids will still be talking about it weeks later. So will the adults, though they admit it less. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or also check Tiqets.

At lunchtime, stay around Al Kifaf - Dubai: a noisy room, a dish of the day, and you’ve understood everything.

After lunch, meet me at Zabeel Park. Bring water, shoes that hold, and no watch. Travellers give it 4.6 out of 5 (42,198 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line book your visit, otherwise compare on Tiqets.

Keep the evening free. Dubai is a city that tells itself better at night.

Day 5 · With the family

Early in the morning, head to Dubai Aquarium & Underwater Zoo. The kids will still be talking about it weeks later. So will the adults, though they admit it less. Unmissable, and for good reason. Travellers give it 4.5 out of 5 (80,143 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line book your visit, otherwise also check Tiqets.

Dubai Aquarium & Underwater Zoo, in Dubai

Then, I make my way to Mermaids of Arabia. The kids will still be talking about it weeks later. So will the adults, though they admit it less. Travellers give it 4.7 out of 5 (896 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line book your visit, otherwise also check Tiqets.

At lunchtime, stay around Burj Khalifa - Downtown Dubai - Dubai: a noisy room, a dish of the day, and you’ve understood everything.

In the afternoon, it’s Dubai Mall Waterfall. Bring water, shoes that hold, and no watch. Everyone goes; everyone is right. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line book your visit, otherwise compare on Tiqets.

Keep the evening free. Dubai is a city that tells itself better at night.

If you’re still hungry

I still have a few up my sleeve: The View Palm Jumeirah, Dubai Miracle Garden l دبي ميراكل جاردن, Burj Khalifa, Lost World Aquarium at Aquaventure World, Dubai Gold Souk and Ski Dubai. Your call.

My advice

The metro is clean, air-conditioned and links the airport to the main districts: get a Nol card at any station.

From June to September the heat forces you indoors by day; from October to April everything happens outside.

Clothing covering shoulders and knees in souks and mosques: simple respect.

There. The rest is yours: the detours, the encounters, the café that becomes your own.

A Triovol story · written by someone who would go back tomorrow

Opening hours, prices and closures change: a quick look at the venue’s website before you go avoids bad surprises.