Stories · Cuba

A weekend in Havana

The story I wish I had read before going.

A weekend in Havana, in Havana

Havana is earned slowly. This story follows a simple logic: the icons early in the morning, the neighbourhoods when the city wakes up, and evenings left to chance. 2 days, one thread, no stress.

Day 1 · The icons

Early in the morning, it’s Cuban Art Factory. I always pick two or three rooms rather than seeing everything. You walk out light. Unmissable, and for good reason. Travellers give it 4.7 out of 5 (2,117 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or go through Tiqets.

Then, I make my way to Torreon de la Chorrera. You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise also check Tiqets.

Torreon de la Chorrera, in Havana

For lunch, La Habana is full of options: trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.

In the afternoon, meet me at Parque Almendares. Go late in the afternoon: the heat drops, the light softens and the photos take themselves. 4.5 out of 5 across 223 reviews: few places are this unanimous. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or compare on Tiqets.

As the light fades, head to Havanna Kuba. It’s the kind of place that makes you go quiet for a moment, even when you thought you knew it all. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or compare on Tiqets.

Keep the evening free. Havana is a city that tells itself better at night.

Day 2 · The icons

In the morning, meet me at Tulipa del mundo. Take the time to walk all the way around it; the best views are rarely at the entrance. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line book your visit, otherwise compare on Tiqets.

Tulipa del mundo, in Havana

Around noon, head to Parque Humboldt. Take the time to walk all the way around it; the best views are rarely at the entrance. To get organised: here is the route by public transport; skip-the-line book your visit, otherwise go through Tiqets.

At lunchtime, stay around La Habana: a noisy room, a dish of the day, and you’ve understood everything.

Later, I make my way to Saint Francis of Assisi Plaza. It’s the kind of place that makes you go quiet for a moment, even when you thought you knew it all. 4.6 out of 5 across 1,196 reviews: few places are this unanimous. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or compare on Tiqets.

To end the day, meet me at Old Town Square. You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. Everyone goes; everyone is right. 4.6 out of 5 across 3,249 reviews: few places are this unanimous. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or go through Tiqets.

In the evening, let go: a terrace, a walk, and Havana does the rest.

If you’re still hungry

I still have a few up my sleeve: Plaza de la Catedral, Central Park, Castle of the Three Kings of Morro, National Capitol of Cuba, Plaza de Armas and Fort Of San Carlos Of The Cabin. Your call.

My advice

Walk. Then take public transport: that is where you see the city live.

Book the busiest places the day before: queues have ruined more than one morning.

Keep a little local cash: the best addresses are often the least equipped.

There. The rest is yours: the detours, the encounters, the café that becomes your own.

A Triovol story · written by someone who would go back tomorrow

Opening hours, prices and closures change: a quick look at the venue’s website before you go avoids bad surprises.