Stories · Spain
3 days in Madrid
Told the way I’d tell a friend, step by step.
Madrid does not show itself right away. It has no sea and no grand river; it has terraces, huge museums and a way of living late that eventually wins you over. After two days you will dine at ten like everyone else, and you will understand.
Day 1 · Fresh air
In the morning, head to El Retiro Park. The lake, the Crystal Palace, the Sunday domino players. It is Madrid’s lung and the best place to digest the Prado. 4.8 out of 5 across 216,949 reviews: few places are this unanimous. Practical: here is the route by public transport · travellers’ reviews.
Then, I make my way to Velázquez Palace. Go late in the afternoon: the heat drops, the light softens and the photos take themselves. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or go through Tiqets.
For lunch, trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.
After lunch, it’s Palacio de Cristal. Bring water, shoes that hold, and no watch. Travellers give it 4.5 out of 5 (48,083 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise also check Tiqets.
Keep the evening free. Madrid is a city that tells itself better at night.
Day 2 · Fresh air
Early in the morning, meet me at Royal Palace of Madrid. The throne room and the armoury, then the Sabatini gardens for the sunset photo. Opposite, the Almudena cathedral, modern and surprising. 4.7 out of 5 across 134,766 reviews: few places are this unanimous. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line book your visit, otherwise compare on Tiqets.
Late morning, meet me at Puerta del Príncipe. Take the time to walk all the way around it; the best views are rarely at the entrance. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or compare on Tiqets.
Lunch without a plan: the first noisy room you pass is often the right one.
In the afternoon, head to Royal Armoury of Madrid. The audio guides are worth it; otherwise, follow a group and steal three anecdotes on the way. Travellers give it 4.6 out of 5 (824 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or also check Tiqets.
Once night falls, Santiago Bernabéu Stadium: The museum and the stadium tour, pitch included, for football lovers; a Real match on a winter night for the others, who will become football lovers. To get organised: here is the route by public transport; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise also check Tiqets.
Day 3 · Day trip
To start, it’s Toledo. Thirty minutes by train, and a whole city perched on its rock: cathedral, synagogues, mosque, El Greco. A day worth a journey. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or also check Tiqets.
Around noon, meet me at Segovia. The intact Roman aqueduct in the middle of town, the Alcázar like a fairy-tale castle, and suckling pig at noon. The other great escape from Madrid. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or go through Tiqets.
If you’re still hungry
I still have a few up my sleeve: Plaza Mayor, Jardín del Capricho, Lope de Vega Casa Museo, Gran Vía, Teatro Real and Royal Basilica of Saint Francis the Great. Your call.
My advice
Lunch is around two, dinner after nine: off-beat, the kitchens are closed.
A ten-ride metro card is enough; the centre is done on foot.
In bars a tapa often comes with the drink: order small, often.
Safe travels. And get lost at least once; that is where Madrid begins.
A Triovol story · written by someone who would go back tomorrow
Opening hours, prices and closures change: a quick look at the venue’s website before you go avoids bad surprises.