Stories · Iceland

A weekend in Reykjavik

Told the way I’d tell a friend, step by step.

A weekend in Reykjavik, in Reykjavik

Reykjavik is earned slowly. This story follows a simple logic: the icons early in the morning, the neighbourhoods when the city wakes up, and evenings left to chance. 2 days, one thread, no stress.

Day 1 · Museums and culture

Early in the morning, head to FlyOver Iceland. The kids will still be talking about it weeks later. So will the adults, though they admit it less. Travellers give it 4.7 out of 5 (5,859 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. To get organised: here is the route by public transport; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise compare on Tiqets.

Then, it’s Whales of Iceland. Give it a good two hours, and leave before you are full: that is the secret to wanting to come back. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or also check Tiqets.

Whales of Iceland, in Reykjavik

For lunch, trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.

In the afternoon, meet me at Lava Show. You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. 4.8 out of 5 across 5,348 reviews: few places are this unanimous. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise go through Tiqets.

As the light fades, I make my way to Reykjavík Maritime Museum. I always pick two or three rooms rather than seeing everything. You walk out light. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or compare on Tiqets.

Keep the evening free. Reykjavik is a city that tells itself better at night.

Day 2 · The icons

To start, head to Sun Voyager. It’s the kind of place that makes you go quiet for a moment, even when you thought you knew it all. Travellers give it 4.5 out of 5 (10,603 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise go through Tiqets.

Sun Voyager, in Reykjavik

Around noon, I make my way to Viking Mural. Take the time to walk all the way around it; the best views are rarely at the entrance. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or compare on Tiqets.

Lunch without a plan: the first noisy room you pass is often the right one.

After lunch, head to Vampire Mural. It’s the kind of place that makes you go quiet for a moment, even when you thought you knew it all. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or go through Tiqets.

To end the day, meet me at Seaview from Reykjavik. Take the time to walk all the way around it; the best views are rarely at the entrance. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line book your visit, otherwise go through Tiqets.

In the evening, let go: a terrace, a walk, and Reykjavik does the rest.

If you’re still hungry

Other places I wish I could have fitted in: Hallgrimskirkja, Skólavörðustígur Rainbow Street, Árbæjar Museum, The Einar Jónsson Museum, Hljómskálagarðurinn and Reykjavík Art Museum. Slip them in wherever a day feels light.

My advice

Walk. Then take public transport: that is where you see the city live.

Book the busiest places the day before: queues have ruined more than one morning.

Keep a little local cash: the best addresses are often the least equipped.

There. The rest is yours: the detours, the encounters, the café that becomes your own.

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