Stories · Martinique

4 days in Martinique

Told the way I’d tell a friend, step by step.

4 days in Martinique, in Martinique

On an island you count in tides rather than hours. 4 days in Martinique is time enough to go around it and leave a bit of yourself.

Day 1 · With the family

In the morning, head to Presqu'Île Caravelle. The kids will still be talking about it weeks later. So will the adults, though they admit it less. Travellers give it 4.6 out of 5 (5,669 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise compare on Tiqets.

Around noon, I make my way to Phare de La Caravelle. Take the time to walk all the way around it; the best views are rarely at the entrance. 4.7 out of 5 across 683 reviews: few places are this unanimous. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your tickets or go through Tiqets.

Phare de La Caravelle, in Martinique

At lunchtime, stay around La Trinité: a noisy room, a dish of the day, and you’ve understood everything.

Later, it’s Habitation Clément. This is the breath of the trip. Even one hour changes the day. Travellers give it 4.6 out of 5 (2,757 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line book your visit, otherwise also check Tiqets.

In the evening, let go: a terrace, a walk, and Martinique does the rest.

Day 2 · Fresh air

To start, meet me at Jardin de Balata. Bring water, shoes that hold, and no watch. Travellers give it 4.6 out of 5 (12,219 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or compare on Tiqets.

Jardin de Balata, in Martinique

Then, it’s Parc Culturel Aimé Césaire. Go late in the afternoon: the heat drops, the light softens and the photos take themselves. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or compare on Tiqets.

For lunch, Fort-de-France 97200 is full of options: trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.

After lunch, head to Aimé Césaire (small) Museum. Give it a good two hours, and leave before you are full: that is the secret to wanting to come back. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or compare on Tiqets.

Keep the evening free. Martinique is a city that tells itself better at night.

Day 3 · With the family

Early in the morning, it’s Savanna of Petrifications. The kids will still be talking about it weeks later. So will the adults, though they admit it less. 4.6 out of 5 across 1,200 reviews: few places are this unanimous. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line book your visit, otherwise go through Tiqets.

Savanna of Petrifications, in Martinique

Late morning, meet me at Anse Michel. It’s the kind of place that makes you go quiet for a moment, even when you thought you knew it all. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or also check Tiqets.

At lunchtime, stay around Sainte-Anne 97227: a noisy room, a dish of the day, and you’ve understood everything.

In the afternoon, I make my way to LION'S PARC. The kids will still be talking about it weeks later. So will the adults, though they admit it less. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise compare on Tiqets.

In the evening, let go: a terrace, a walk, and Martinique does the rest.

Day 4 · The icons

Early in the morning, meet me at Gorges de la Falaise. You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. Travellers give it 4.5 out of 5 (1,063 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. To get organised: here is the route by public transport; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise compare on Tiqets.

Gorges de la Falaise, in Martinique

Around noon, it’s ZOO Martinique HOUSING LATOUCHE. The kids will still be talking about it weeks later. So will the adults, though they admit it less. 4.5 out of 5 across 3,054 reviews: few places are this unanimous. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise compare on Tiqets.

At lunchtime, stay around L'Ajoupa-Bouillon 97216: a noisy room, a dish of the day, and you’ve understood everything.

Later, it’s St. Louis Catholic Cathedral. I always pick two or three rooms rather than seeing everything. You walk out light. 4.5 out of 5 across 1,272 reviews: few places are this unanimous. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise go through Tiqets.

Keep the evening free. Martinique is a city that tells itself better at night.

If you’re still hungry

Other places I wish I could have fitted in: Mémorial Cap 110 – Mémorial de l’Anse Caffard, Ponton Diamant, Plage du Diamant, Point de vue Baie des 3 Îlets, Departmental Museum of Archaeology and Prehistory of Martinique and La maison du bagnard. Slip them in wherever a day feels light.

My advice

Walk. Then take public transport: that is where you see the city live.

Book the busiest places the day before: queues have ruined more than one morning.

Keep a little local cash: the best addresses are often the least equipped.

And if you go, tell me what you loved. Martinique changes, and so do I.

A Triovol story · written by someone who would go back tomorrow

Opening hours, prices and closures change: a quick look at the venue’s website before you go avoids bad surprises.