Stories · Japan

5 days in Osaka

Not a list: a thread to follow, at your own pace.

5 days in Osaka, in Osaka

My first time in Osaka, I tried to see everything and mostly saw queues. Now I do it differently: a few places a day, the right ones, in the right order. Here is my 5-day thread.

Day 1 · Museums and culture

Early in the morning, I make my way to Harukas 300. The audio guides are worth it; otherwise, follow a group and steal three anecdotes on the way. Unmissable, and for good reason. 4.6 out of 5 across 23,944 reviews: few places are this unanimous. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or compare on Tiqets.

Late morning, it’s Abeno Harukas. Bring water, shoes that hold, and no watch. Everyone goes; everyone is right. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise also check Tiqets.

Abeno Harukas, in Osaka

For lunch, trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.

After lunch, head to Osaka Monument. I always pick two or three rooms rather than seeing everything. You walk out light. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or go through Tiqets.

In the evening, let go: a terrace, a walk, and Osaka does the rest.

Day 2 · The icons

In the morning, meet me at Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan. The kids will still be talking about it weeks later. So will the adults, though they admit it less. Unmissable, and for good reason. Travellers give it 4.5 out of 5 (62,529 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your tickets or also check Tiqets.

Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan, in Osaka

Then, it’s 大阪港. Take the time to walk all the way around it; the best views are rarely at the entrance. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your tickets or also check Tiqets.

Lunch without a plan: the first noisy room you pass is often the right one.

Later, it’s Tempozan Ferris Wheel. It’s the kind of place that makes you go quiet for a moment, even when you thought you knew it all. Unmissable, and for good reason. Travellers give it 4.5 out of 5 (10,990 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise also check Tiqets.

Keep the evening free. Osaka is a city that tells itself better at night.

Day 3 · The icons

To start, it’s Dotonbori. You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. Everyone goes; everyone is right. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise compare on Tiqets.

Dotonbori, in Osaka

Around noon, I make my way to Tonbori River Walk. Go late in the afternoon: the heat drops, the light softens and the photos take themselves. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise also check Tiqets.

For lunch, trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.

In the afternoon, head to Hozen-ji. You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. Everyone goes; everyone is right. To get organised: here is the route by public transport; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise compare on Tiqets.

In the evening, let go: a terrace, a walk, and Osaka does the rest.

Day 4 · The icons

Early in the morning, I make my way to Universal Studios Japan. Take the time to walk all the way around it; the best views are rarely at the entrance. Unmissable, and for good reason. Travellers give it 4.5 out of 5 (157,000 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or go through Tiqets.

Universal Studios Japan, in Osaka

Late morning, I make my way to Namba Yasaka Jinja. It’s the kind of place that makes you go quiet for a moment, even when you thought you knew it all. Everyone goes; everyone is right. 4.5 out of 5 across 17,000 reviews: few places are this unanimous. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise compare on Tiqets.

Lunch without a plan: the first noisy room you pass is often the right one.

Later, meet me at Shitennō-ji. You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. Unmissable, and for good reason. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or go through Tiqets.

Keep the evening free. Osaka is a city that tells itself better at night.

Day 5 · Fresh air

To start, head to Osaka Castle. This is the breath of the trip. Even one hour changes the day. Unmissable, and for good reason. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or also check Tiqets.

Osaka Castle, in Osaka

Then, I make my way to Osaka Castle Museum. Give it a good two hours, and leave before you are full: that is the secret to wanting to come back. Travellers give it 4.5 out of 5 (5,899 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. To get organised: here is the route by public transport; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise also check Tiqets.

For lunch, trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.

After lunch, meet me at Osaka Castle Park. Go late in the afternoon: the heat drops, the light softens and the photos take themselves. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or also check Tiqets.

Keep the evening free. Osaka is a city that tells itself better at night.

If you’re still hungry

I still have a few up my sleeve: Umeda Sky Building, Kuchu Teien Observatory, Sumiyoshi Taisha, Shinsaibashi, Tsutenkaku and Kuromon Market. Your call.

My advice

Walk. Then take public transport: that is where you see the city live.

Book the busiest places the day before: queues have ruined more than one morning.

Keep a little local cash: the best addresses are often the least equipped.

There. The rest is yours: the detours, the encounters, the café that becomes your own.

A Triovol story · written by someone who would go back tomorrow

Opening hours, prices and closures change: a quick look at the venue’s website before you go avoids bad surprises.