Stories · Japan
5 days in Tokyo
The story I wish I had read before going.
Tokyo taught me the politeness of silence and the joy of a bowl of ramen at midnight. It is an immense city visited by neighbourhoods, each a city in itself: Asakusa for yesterday’s Japan, Shibuya for today’s, Shinjuku for the night. Don’t try to see everything; try to eat well and get lost.
Day 1 · The icons
In the morning, it’s Shibuya Sky. Take the time to walk all the way around it; the best views are rarely at the entrance. Unmissable, and for good reason. 4.6 out of 5 across 27,558 reviews: few places are this unanimous. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or also check Tiqets.
Late morning, I make my way to Hachiko Statue. It’s the kind of place that makes you go quiet for a moment, even when you thought you knew it all. Everyone goes; everyone is right. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise go through Tiqets.
For lunch, Tokyo 150-0043 is full of options: trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.
Later, meet me at Cat Street. You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or compare on Tiqets.
In the evening, let go: a terrace, a walk, and Tokyo does the rest.
Day 2 · The icons
To start, head to Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden. The kids will still be talking about it weeks later. So will the adults, though they admit it less. Everyone goes; everyone is right. Travellers give it 4.6 out of 5 (46,067 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your tickets or also check Tiqets.
Then, I make my way to Omoide Yokocho Memory Lane. It’s the kind of place that makes you go quiet for a moment, even when you thought you knew it all. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise also check Tiqets.
At lunchtime, stay around Tokyo 160-0014: a noisy room, a dish of the day, and you’ve understood everything.
In the afternoon, meet me at Godzilla Head. You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or also check Tiqets.
Once night falls, Baseball at the Tokyo Dome: The Giants, the chants, the beer sellers with kegs on their backs: sport like nowhere else, even if you understand nothing. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your tickets or go through Tiqets.
Day 3 · Day trip
Early in the morning, meet me at Hakone and Mount Fuji. A day by train: Lake Ashi, the ropeway above the fumaroles, and Fuji appearing if the sky agrees. An onsen before heading back. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your tickets or go through Tiqets.
Around noon, I make my way to Kamakura. An hour by train, a great bronze Buddha, temples in the greenery and a beach. The Japan you imagined, within reach of Tokyo. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise compare on Tiqets.
Day 4 · The icons
In the morning, it’s Sensō-ji. The temple at seven in the morning, before the Nakamise shops open: incense, lanterns, and the neighbourhood stretching awake. Come back at night; the lit pagoda is another wonder. 4.6 out of 5 across 100,451 reviews: few places are this unanimous. Practical: how to get there · travellers’ reviews.
Then, I make my way to Nakamise Shopping Street. Take the time to walk all the way around it; the best views are rarely at the entrance. To get organised: here is the route by public transport; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise compare on Tiqets.
At lunchtime, stay around Tokyo 111-0032: a noisy room, a dish of the day, and you’ve understood everything.
After lunch, meet me at Kawazu-Zakura next to Tokyo Skytree. It’s the kind of place that makes you go quiet for a moment, even when you thought you knew it all. Travellers give it 4.5 out of 5 (218 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or go through Tiqets.
Keep the evening free. Tokyo is a city that tells itself better at night.
Day 5 · Fresh air
In the morning, it’s Meiji Jingu. The forest and the shrine on one side, Takeshita-dori and its crêpes on the other: five minutes’ walk between two Japans. 4.7 out of 5 across 53,970 reviews: few places are this unanimous. Getting there: the public-transport route. To get a feel for it: travellers’ reviews.
Around noon, it’s Yoyogi Park. Bring water, shoes that hold, and no watch. Everyone goes; everyone is right. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or compare on Tiqets.
For lunch, Tokyo 151-0052 is full of options: trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.
Later, meet me at Yoyogi Park Clock Tower. Go late in the afternoon: the heat drops, the light softens and the photos take themselves. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise also check Tiqets.
In the evening, let go: a terrace, a walk, and Tokyo does the rest.
If you’re still hungry
Other places I wish I could have fitted in: teamLab Borderless: MORI Building DIGITAL ART MUSEUM, Tokyo National Museum, teamLab Planets TOKYO DMM, Tokyo Skytree, Ueno Park and Hamarikyu Gardens. Slip them in wherever a day feels light.
My advice
A Suica card on your phone is enough for every train, metro and konbini.
Konbini are your friends: morning onigiri, decent coffee, cash machine.
No eating while walking and no loud talking on the train: two rules, and everything will be forgiven.
And if you go, tell me what you loved. Tokyo changes, and so do I.
A Triovol story · written by someone who would go back tomorrow
Opening hours, prices and closures change: a quick look at the venue’s website before you go avoids bad surprises.