4 days in Phnom Penh

Early in the morning, it’s Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. I always pick two or three rooms rather than seeing everything. You walk out light. Everyone goes; everyone is right. 4.6 out of 5 across 12,220 reviews: few places are this unanimous. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line book your visit, otherwise go through Tiqets.

Around noon, head to Moha Montrei Monastery. You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your tickets or compare on Tiqets.

After lunch, I make my way to SOSORO - Preah Srey Içanavarman Museum. Give it a good two hours, and leave before you are full: that is the secret to wanting to come back. Unmissable, and for good reason. Travellers give it 4.8 out of 5 (918 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise also check Tiqets.

To start, meet me at Choeung Ek Genocidal Center. The audio guides are worth it; otherwise, follow a group and steal three anecdotes on the way. Unmissable, and for good reason. 4.6 out of 5 across 2,191 reviews: few places are this unanimous. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or compare on Tiqets.

Late morning, it’s PH Euro Park. Go late in the afternoon: the heat drops, the light softens and the photos take themselves. Travellers give it 4.6 out of 5 (2,404 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your tickets or also check Tiqets.

Later, meet me at Bassac Street. Here the plan is to have none: one street, then the next, and a table when your stomach asks. Travellers give it 4.5 out of 5 (252 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your tickets or compare on Tiqets.

In the morning, head to Statue of His Majesty Preah Bat Samdech Preah Norodom Sihanouk. This is the breath of the trip. Even one hour changes the day. Everyone goes; everyone is right. Travellers give it 4.6 out of 5 (1,932 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or compare on Tiqets.

Then, it’s Independence Monument. Take the time to walk all the way around it; the best views are rarely at the entrance. Everyone goes; everyone is right. Travellers give it 4.5 out of 5 (5,379 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise go through Tiqets.

In the afternoon, meet me at Naga Water Fountains. It’s the kind of place that makes you go quiet for a moment, even when you thought you knew it all. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or also check Tiqets.

In the morning, I make my way to Wat Phnom Daun Penh. It’s the kind of place that makes you go quiet for a moment, even when you thought you knew it all. Unmissable, and for good reason. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or also check Tiqets.

Then, head to The Giant Clock of Phnom Penh. Take the time to walk all the way around it; the best views are rarely at the entrance. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise go through Tiqets.

Later, I make my way to Phnom Penh Night Market. My advice: a pause on a terrace at the hour when locals leave work. You understand everything. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise go through Tiqets.