Stories · Algeria

5 days in Algiers

Not a list: a thread to follow, at your own pace.

5 days in Algiers, in Algiers

You don’t visit Algiers; it takes you in. Here is how I’d spend 5 days there without rushing, leaving room for the things you can’t plan.

Day 1 · The icons

In the morning, head to Great Mosque of Algeria. Take the time to walk all the way around it; the best views are rarely at the entrance. Unmissable, and for good reason. Travellers give it 4.7 out of 5 (9,400 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Practical: the public-transport route · travellers’ reviews.

Then, it’s Djamaa el Kebir. It’s the kind of place that makes you go quiet for a moment, even when you thought you knew it all. Everyone goes; everyone is right. 4.6 out of 5 across 844 reviews: few places are this unanimous. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or also check Tiqets.

Djamaa el Kebir, in Algiers

For lunch, trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.

In the afternoon, meet me at La grande poste of Algiers. You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. Everyone goes; everyone is right. 4.5 out of 5 across 1,700 reviews: few places are this unanimous. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise compare on Tiqets.

Keep the evening free. Algiers is a city that tells itself better at night.

Day 2 · The icons

Early in the morning, I make my way to Church of Notre Dame d'Afrique. Take the time to walk all the way around it; the best views are rarely at the entrance. Unmissable, and for good reason. Travellers give it 4.5 out of 5 (4,280 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your tickets or go through Tiqets.

Church of Notre Dame d'Afrique, in Algiers

Late morning, head to Le balcon de la Casbah d'Alger. You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise also check Tiqets.

For lunch, Bologhine 16070 is full of options: trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.

Later, meet me at Plage Parc Aux Huîtres. Go late in the afternoon: the heat drops, the light softens and the photos take themselves. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line book your visit, otherwise also check Tiqets.

In the evening, let go: a terrace, a walk, and Algiers does the rest.

Day 3 · The icons

To start, head to Ketchaoua Mosque casbah. Take the time to walk all the way around it; the best views are rarely at the entrance. Unmissable, and for good reason. 4.7 out of 5 across 1,482 reviews: few places are this unanimous. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line book your visit, otherwise also check Tiqets.

Ketchaoua Mosque casbah, in Algiers

Around noon, meet me at Dar Hassan Pacha. Bring water, shoes that hold, and no watch. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or also check Tiqets.

At lunchtime, stay around Casbah 16000: a noisy room, a dish of the day, and you’ve understood everything.

After lunch, meet me at Dar Aziza. Give it a good two hours, and leave before you are full: that is the secret to wanting to come back. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line book your visit, otherwise also check Tiqets.

In the evening, let go: a terrace, a walk, and Algiers does the rest.

Day 4 · Museums and culture

In the morning, I make my way to Botanical Garden Hamma. The kids will still be talking about it weeks later. So will the adults, though they admit it less. Unmissable, and for good reason. Travellers give it 4.5 out of 5 (7,551 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your tickets or also check Tiqets.

Botanical Garden Hamma, in Algiers

Then, head to National Museum of Fine Arts of Algiers. The audio guides are worth it; otherwise, follow a group and steal three anecdotes on the way. Unmissable, and for good reason. 4.5 out of 5 across 888 reviews: few places are this unanimous. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise go through Tiqets.

For lunch, El Madania is full of options: trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.

In the afternoon, meet me at Martyrs Memorial. I always pick two or three rooms rather than seeing everything. You walk out light. Everyone goes; everyone is right. Travellers give it 4.5 out of 5 (11,372 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise also check Tiqets.

In the evening, let go: a terrace, a walk, and Algiers does the rest.

Day 5 · Museums and culture

Early in the morning, I make my way to Bardo National Museum of Prehistory and Ethnography. The audio guides are worth it; otherwise, follow a group and steal three anecdotes on the way. Unmissable, and for good reason. Travellers give it 4.5 out of 5 (1,509 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or also check Tiqets.

Bardo National Museum of Prehistory and Ethnography, in Algiers

Then, head to National Museum of Antiquities and Islamic Art. Give it a good two hours, and leave before you are full: that is the secret to wanting to come back. Unmissable, and for good reason. To get organised: here is the route by public transport; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise go through Tiqets.

For lunch, Alger Centre 16000 is full of options: trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.

After lunch, it’s ساحة أودن. You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. Travellers give it 4.5 out of 5 (354 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line book your visit, otherwise also check Tiqets.

Keep the evening free. Algiers is a city that tells itself better at night.

If you’re still hungry

I still have a few up my sleeve: Dar Mustapha Pacha, Aquafortland Pool, Bab Ezzouar Mall, Martyrs' Square, Le boulevard d'alger and La source des anciens "منبع القدماء ". Your call.

My advice

Walk. Then take public transport: that is where you see the city live.

Book the busiest places the day before: queues have ruined more than one morning.

Keep a little local cash: the best addresses are often the least equipped.

Safe travels. And get lost at least once; that is where Algiers begins.

A Triovol story · written by someone who would go back tomorrow

Opening hours, prices and closures change: a quick look at the venue’s website before you go avoids bad surprises.