Stories · Mayotte

5 days in Mayotte

The story I wish I had read before going.

5 days in Mayotte, in Mayotte

Mayotte looks like nothing you know: a lagoon closed by one of the largest coral reefs in the world, villages where you are greeted in Shimaore, lemurs that come to steal bananas at breakfast. There is no big tourist infrastructure here, and that is a blessing: you live the island to the rhythm of tides and fishermen. Here is what I would do with a few days ahead of me.

Day 1 · Fresh air

Early in the morning, meet me at White sand islet (Îlot de sable blanc). A sandbank that exists only at low tide, in the middle of three-coloured water. You stay an hour, barefoot, and never forget it. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or compare on Tiqets.

Then, head to Moya beach. Two wild coves facing the ocean on Petite-Terre, where turtles lay their eggs at night. Go at sunset, following the wardens’ instructions. Practical: how to get there · travellers’ reviews.

Lunch without a plan: the first noisy room you pass is often the right one.

After lunch, it’s N’Gouja beach. In the south, the beach where green turtles graze a few metres from the shore: mask, snorkel and patience. Lemurs come down from the baobabs at the end of the day. Getting there: here is the route by public transport. To get a feel for it: what visitors say.

In the evening, let go: a terrace, a walk, and Mayotte does the rest.

Day 2 · The icons

In the morning, I make my way to Mayotte lagoon boat trip. The lagoon is the obvious choice: a day trip to swim with turtles, spot dolphins and, from July to October, the humpback whales that come to calve in the calm waters. The coastal diving and kayak clubs run them; ask for the S-Pass. To get organised: here is the route by public transport; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise also check Tiqets.

Around noon, I make my way to Mamoudzou and its market. The covered market for spices, ylang-ylang and grilled mabawas at noon; the barge to Dzaoudzi to see the island from the water on the way back. Getting there: the public-transport route. To get a feel for it: travellers’ reviews.

For lunch, trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.

Later, head to Sakouli beach. Dark sand, pirogues, a sheltered bay for swimming: the beach of Mahoran families on Sundays. Practical: here is the route by public transport · what visitors say.

Keep the evening free. Mayotte is a city that tells itself better at night.

Day 3 · The icons

To start, head to Lake Dziani. On Petite-Terre, an emerald lake at the bottom of a crater; the walk around takes an hour, with the lagoon as a backdrop on the other side of the ridge. Getting there: how to get there. To get a feel for it: travellers’ reviews.

Late morning, it’s Mont Choungui. Two hours of steep climbing for a 360-degree view over the lagoon, Petite-Terre and the islets. Leave at dawn; shade is scarce. Practical: here is the route by public transport · what visitors say.

At lunchtime, stay around Dembeni 97660: a noisy room, a dish of the day, and you’ve understood everything.

In the afternoon, I make my way to Mayotte VTT. You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or go through Tiqets.

Keep the evening free. Mayotte is a city that tells itself better at night.

Day 4 · The icons

Early in the morning, head to Cascade de Soulou. It’s the kind of place that makes you go quiet for a moment, even when you thought you knew it all. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or go through Tiqets.

Cascade de Soulou, in Mayotte

Then, I make my way to Baie de soulou. Take the time to walk all the way around it; the best views are rarely at the entrance. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise compare on Tiqets.

For lunch, Майотта 97680 is full of options: trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.

In the afternoon, meet me at Plage de Zidakani. This is the breath of the trip. Even one hour changes the day. To get organised: here is the route by public transport; skip-the-line book your visit, otherwise also check Tiqets.

Keep the evening free. Mayotte is a city that tells itself better at night.

Day 5 · Fresh air

Early in the morning, head to Plage de Moya 1. Go late in the afternoon: the heat drops, the light softens and the photos take themselves. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your tickets or compare on Tiqets.

Plage de Moya 1, in Mayotte

Then, it’s Plage de Petite Moya. Bring water, shoes that hold, and no watch. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or also check Tiqets.

For lunch, Dzaoudzi 97615 is full of options: trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.

In the afternoon, it’s Plage de Moya 2. Bring water, shoes that hold, and no watch. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise go through Tiqets.

In the evening, let go: a terrace, a walk, and Mayotte does the rest.

If you’re still hungry

Other places I wish I could have fitted in: Cascade de Majimbini, Plage de N'Gouja, Plage de Sakouli, Pointe Bandrélé, Point de vue and Plage de Mbouini. Slip them in wherever a day feels light.

My advice

Rent a car: distances are short but buses are rare and shared taxis unpredictable.

The dry season, May to October, is the most pleasant; whales are there from July to October.

Many activities are booked directly with local clubs: TripAdvisor remains the best place to compare them.

There. The rest is yours: the detours, the encounters, the café that becomes your own.

A Triovol story · written by someone who would go back tomorrow

Opening hours, prices and closures change: a quick look at the venue’s website before you go avoids bad surprises.