Stories · Colombia

4 days in Cartagena

Not a list: a thread to follow, at your own pace.

4 days in Cartagena, in Cartagena

My first time in Cartagena, I tried to see everything and mostly saw queues. Now I do it differently: a few places a day, the right ones, in the right order. Here is my 4-day thread.

Day 1 · The icons

Early in the morning, head to La Serrezuela Mall. This is where the city looks most like itself. Walk slowly, look at the shopfronts, listen. Unmissable, and for good reason. 4.8 out of 5 across 27,000 reviews: few places are this unanimous. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your tickets or go through Tiqets.

Then, I make my way to Las Bóvedas. It’s the kind of place that makes you go quiet for a moment, even when you thought you knew it all. Everyone goes; everyone is right. Travellers give it 4.5 out of 5 (8,600 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. To get organised: here is the route by public transport; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise compare on Tiqets.

Las Bóvedas, in Cartagena

For lunch, trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.

Later, meet me at Bocagrande Plaza Mall. Take the time to walk all the way around it; the best views are rarely at the entrance. Unmissable, and for good reason. Travellers give it 4.5 out of 5 (16,000 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Getting there: the public-transport route. To get a feel for it: what visitors say.

Keep the evening free. Cartagena is a city that tells itself better at night.

Day 2 · Fresh air

In the morning, it’s San Felipe de Barajas Fort. The audio guides are worth it; otherwise, follow a group and steal three anecdotes on the way. Unmissable, and for good reason. Travellers give it 4.7 out of 5 (68,032 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or also check Tiqets.

San Felipe de Barajas Fort, in Cartagena

Late morning, it’s PLAZA San Felipe. Bring water, shoes that hold, and no watch. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your tickets or compare on Tiqets.

For lunch, Bolívar is full of options: trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.

In the afternoon, I make my way to Las Botas Viejas. Go late in the afternoon: the heat drops, the light softens and the photos take themselves. Unmissable, and for good reason. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise also check Tiqets.

In the evening, let go: a terrace, a walk, and Cartagena does the rest.

Day 3 · The icons

To start, head to Catedral de Santa Catalina de Alejandría. You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. Everyone goes; everyone is right. Travellers give it 4.8 out of 5 (2,760 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or go through Tiqets.

Catedral de Santa Catalina de Alejandría, in Cartagena

Around noon, meet me at Palacio de la Proclamación. This is the breath of the trip. Even one hour changes the day. 4.8 out of 5 across 809 reviews: few places are this unanimous. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or go through Tiqets.

At lunchtime, stay around Bolívar: a noisy room, a dish of the day, and you’ve understood everything.

After lunch, meet me at Museo del Oro Zenú. I always pick two or three rooms rather than seeing everything. You walk out light. Everyone goes; everyone is right. Travellers give it 4.6 out of 5 (1,399 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or compare on Tiqets.

Keep the evening free. Cartagena is a city that tells itself better at night.

Day 4 · Fresh air

Early in the morning, meet me at Plaza de la Trinidad. This is the breath of the trip. Even one hour changes the day. Everyone goes; everyone is right. 4.7 out of 5 across 12,890 reviews: few places are this unanimous. Practical: the public-transport route · travellers’ reviews.

Plaza de la Trinidad, in Cartagena

Late morning, it’s Callejón Ancho. It’s the kind of place that makes you go quiet for a moment, even when you thought you knew it all. To get organised: here is the route by public transport; skip-the-line get your tickets in advance, otherwise also check Tiqets.

At lunchtime, stay around Bolívar: a noisy room, a dish of the day, and you’ve understood everything.

In the afternoon, head to Plazuela del Pozo. Give it a good two hours, and leave before you are full: that is the secret to wanting to come back. 4.5 out of 5 across 207 reviews: few places are this unanimous. To get organised: here is the route by public transport; skip-the-line book your visit, otherwise go through Tiqets.

Keep the evening free. Cartagena is a city that tells itself better at night.

If you’re still hungry

I still have a few up my sleeve: Centro Histórico de Cartagena, Plaza de la Aduana, Monumento Torre del Reloj, Convent of Santa Cruz de la Popa, Mallplaza Cartagena - El Castillo and Plaza de Bolívar. Your call.

My advice

Walk. Then take public transport: that is where you see the city live.

Book the busiest places the day before: queues have ruined more than one morning.

Keep a little local cash: the best addresses are often the least equipped.

Safe travels. And get lost at least once; that is where Cartagena begins.

A Triovol story · written by someone who would go back tomorrow

Opening hours, prices and closures change: a quick look at the venue’s website before you go avoids bad surprises.