Stories · Peru
A weekend in Cusco
The story I wish I had read before going.
My first time in Cusco, I tried to see everything and mostly saw queues. Now I do it differently: a few places a day, the right ones, in the right order. Here is my 2-day thread.
Day 1 · Fresh air
In the morning, it’s Plaza de Armas. Go late in the afternoon: the heat drops, the light softens and the photos take themselves. Unmissable, and for good reason. 4.8 out of 5 across 82,481 reviews: few places are this unanimous. To get organised: how to get there; skip-the-line book your tickets, otherwise go through Tiqets.
Around noon, head to Church of the Society of Jesus. It’s the kind of place that makes you go quiet for a moment, even when you thought you knew it all. Everyone goes; everyone is right. Travellers give it 4.6 out of 5 (414 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Practical: here is the route by public transport, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or also check Tiqets.
At lunchtime, stay around Cusco 08002: a noisy room, a dish of the day, and you’ve understood everything.
After lunch, I make my way to Cusco Cathedral. You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. Unmissable, and for good reason. 4.6 out of 5 across 2,213 reviews: few places are this unanimous. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or compare on Tiqets.
To end the day, meet me at Plaza Regocijo. This is the breath of the trip. Even one hour changes the day. Travellers give it 4.6 out of 5 (2,336 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or compare on Tiqets.
In the evening, let go: a terrace, a walk, and Cusco does the rest.
Day 2 · The icons
To start, head to Qorikancha. Bring water, shoes that hold, and no watch. Unmissable, and for good reason. Travellers give it 4.7 out of 5 (20,717 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or also check Tiqets.
Late morning, I make my way to Koricancha. Take the time to walk all the way around it; the best views are rarely at the entrance. Practical: the public-transport route, and if you’d rather skip the queue, book your visit or go through Tiqets.
For lunch, Cusco 08002 is full of options: trust the rooms full of locals rather than the menus translated into six languages.
Later, head to Church and Convent of Santo Domingo of Guzmán. You’ve seen it a hundred times in pictures; in person it is bigger, closer, more alive. Unmissable, and for good reason. Travellers give it 4.7 out of 5 (6,875 reviews) and I won’t argue with them. To get organised: the public-transport route; skip-the-line book your visit, otherwise compare on Tiqets.
As the light fades, head to The Four Busts House. It’s the kind of place that makes you go quiet for a moment, even when you thought you knew it all. Practical: how to get there, and if you’d rather skip the queue, get your tickets in advance or also check Tiqets.
Keep the evening free. Cusco is a city that tells itself better at night.
If you’re still hungry
I still have a few up my sleeve: Saqsaywaman, Twelve Angled Stone, Tambomachay, Museo de Arte Precolombino Larco, Q'enco Archaeological Complex and Puka Pukara Archaeological Complex. Your call.
My advice
Walk. Then take public transport: that is where you see the city live.
Book the busiest places the day before: queues have ruined more than one morning.
Keep a little local cash: the best addresses are often the least equipped.
There. The rest is yours: the detours, the encounters, the café that becomes your own.
A Triovol story · written by someone who would go back tomorrow
Opening hours, prices and closures change: a quick look at the venue’s website before you go avoids bad surprises.